Malaysia Travel Guide: Malaysia is a friendly, beautiful, culturally rich country and one that’s extremely good value for money to travel in. It’s modern enough to be comfortable yet full of natural beauty to be mesmerized.
Culture and Art: The mix of cultural influences in Malaysia is the result of centuries of immigration and trade with the outside world, particularly with Arab nations, China, and India, however each culture remained largely intact; that is, none have truly been homogenized. Traditional temples and churches exist side by side with mosques.
Special activities: Malaysia also offers some very special activities, and if you make room for one or two of them, they will enhance your trip immeasurably. You can choose to spelunk in the world’s largest single cave chamber in Sarawak’s extraordinary Gunung Mulu National Park, or a diving trip in the tropical waters off both Peninsular Malaysia and Borneo where you can find some of the world’s best scuba diving sites. A visit to the rain forest of Malaysia should be high on the list for anyone who has an affinity for nature, and it should be: the Malaysian rain forest is unique in the world, and the oldest on the planet.
Cuisine: Malaysia is a fabulous place to enjoy the art of eating and drinking. Malaysian Food is a multicultural fusion of Malay, Indians, Chinese and a bit of Peranakan, and this create a unique food that’s not only colorful, spicy and eclectic, but also downright tasty.
Come enjoy Malaysia with me, you can really see, feel, touch, smell and taste the hidden treasures of Malaysia. With so much to see and so much to do, one will never complain about feeling bored here. So, what are you waiting for? Come and visit Malaysia!
Friday, June 1, 2007
Vietnam Tour
My husband and I have recently returned from a trip to Cambodia and Vietnam. We followed a recommendation on this forum and used Sisters Tours Vietnam (www.sisterstoursvn.com) to plan our itinerary and make all arrangements. We were absolutely delighted with the results. We had checked out a number of tour agencies before selecting Sisters Tours. It offered the best value for the dollar. We were not disappointed with the tour, which was custom designed for us. Overall, this was the best tour company we have ever used--quality of lodging, professionalism of the tour planners, expertise of guides, responsiveness to our requests, and sensitivity to our needs. The owner of Sisters Tours is Le Thi To Diep. She is a former tourism teacher from Hanoi Open University and specializes in sustainable tourism. (In addition to her customized itineraries, she also conducts cooking classes.) She is in her early 30s, and her tour guides are also in the 30s with degrees in tourism, English, or a comparable area. All are highly professional. Our itinerary included 3 days in Siem Reap, Cambodia. I will not include a description of that part of the trip in this discussion.
Our Hanoi guide, Mr. Thuy Lam(thuylamvn@gmail.com), met us at the airport in Hanoi, took our passports, and obtained our visas for us. Sisters Tours had done all the preliminary paperwork and arranged for us to get the visas once in Hanoi. We were taken to the Zephyr Hotel, an excellent hotel, in downtown Hanoi. Lam, as he told us to call him, met us early the next morning for a fun-filled day of sightseeing. We toured the French Quarter bordering Ba Dinh Square, which is the political center of Hanoi. We also visited Ho Chi Minh's last residence within the grounds of the former French Governor-General's Palace and the One Pillar Pagoda, one of the few structures remaining from the original foundation of the city. Our itinerary included a visit to Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, but it was closed in order to service his embalmed body. Next, we were off to the excellent Ethnology Museum, which contains artifacts, photographs, and documentaries of practices and rituals of Vietnam's majority Kinh and 53 minority people. A special exhibition, Hanoi Under The Subsidy Economy (1975-1986), chronicles the decade after the communist government oversaw a disastrous experiment in Stalinist collectivism. My husband and I were saddened by the experiences of the Vietnamese people during this time, but Lam filled us with hope for his future and the future of his country. After the museum, we were treated to a special dining experience at Koto, a training restaurant for underprivileged young people. Lam helped us select from the day's specialities and assisted with the order. (Bill Clinton and other dignitaries have eaten here.) We had a short time after lunch to visit the nearby Craft Link, which is a not-for-profit organization that seeks to assist small craft producers (NGOs) to find markets for their products. We did not want to be late for the performance at the water puppets theatre, so we decided on a return visit later. The water puppets show was magical with live music and colorful puppets, and highly skilled puppeteers. We spent a delightful evening with Diep, who treated us to a delicious meal at a local restaurant.
Lam arrived at 8:30am for our 3.5 hour drive to Ha Long Bay, which gave us the opportunity to see the countryside with farms and rice fields. Shortly after our arrival Lam and the two of us embarked on a classic junk. There were 18 guests and 4 guides plus the crew on the junk. We checked in and had lunch cruising in the bay on our way to Thien Cung Cave. The hike through the cave allowed for spectacular views. Once back on the junk we traveled to another area of the bay, got into small boats, and paddled around for more stunning sights. After our evening meal we had an enjoyable conversation with lam about Vietnamese culture past and present. After a quiet and restful night on board, the crew awakened us in time for breakfast. We then traveled to an island for a swim and/or a climb up a hill for splendid views of the bay. We had an early lunch on board as we returned to the harbor, where our driver met us. We had mentioned to Lam that we would like to see the Hoa Lo Prison (Hanoi Hilton), the place where John McCain was imprisoned. He arranged for us to do this on our return to Hanoi, after which he dropped us off at the Craft Link and arranged for the people at the shop to get us a taxi back to the Zephyr Hotel. We had to leave the hotel at 4:30am for our 6:30am flight to Hue. Lam met us with our tickets for this flight and the final flight to HCMC. Once at the airport he checked our luggage and got our boarding passes. It was difficult to say our goodbyes because we had grown so fond of him. He was one of the best tour guides we have ever had.
We arrived in Hue after our short flight, and were met at the airport by our next guide, Mr. Vinh(vinhha123@yahoo.com), who was also an excellent guide. Vinh and the driver took us first to the Hotel Saigon Morin, where we stayed on the recently renovated third floor in one of the superb deluxe rooms. After a delicious breakfast in the hotel's dining room, we met Vinh for our tour of Hue, which was the ancient capital of southern Vietnam during the 18th century. Our tour began at the Imperial City, which is built on the same principles as the Forbidden City in Beijing and where Vietnam's kings once ruled. The Imperial City was constructed in 1804 and is square in shape. While we walked through the different areas, Vinh explained what we would see and what we would not able to see because of destruction from the war and natural disasters. He also provided us with the history and traditions of the Imperial Court. Next we went to Thien Mu Pagoda located on the north bank of the Perfume River and the oldest monastery in Hue. We then returned to the hotel for a nap after the early morning departure. We walked in the city and along the Perfume River waterfront in the late afternoon. Across from the hotel we found an outside restaurant, Thien Dang, along the riverfront. The food was delicious and the atmosphere was great. Overall this was one of our favorite dining experiences in Vietnam. The next morning we informed Vinh that we wanted to visit one of the seven imperial tombs, although that was not part of our itinerary. He agreed and helped us chose the Tomb of Tu Duc. The complex is enclosed by a wall and includes a lake with lotuses and water hyacinths. There is an island in the lake that has replicas of famous temples built by the king. The Xung Khiem Pavilion, which was recently restored, is considered the most attractive building here.
The drive from Hue to Danang along Highway 1 is considered one of the most scenic in Vietnam. This drive takes approximately 3 hours and consists of steep climbs with hairpin curves along the way. The crest is reached at Hai Van pass, which forms a boundary between North and South Vietnam. There are fortifications built by the French and later used by the South Vietnamese and Americans located here. Hai Van means Pass of Ocean Clouds, because the peak of the mountain reaches to the clouds while its foot extends to the South China Sea. We descended for a panoramic view of the bowl shaped bay of Danang. Danang is a seaport town that played a prominent role in the Vietnam War and is noted for its historical significance. Centuries earlier this area was settled by the Chams, who probably immigrated into this region from Indonesia. After visiting the Museum of Champa Sculpture containing the largest collection of Cham artifacts and sculptures in the world, we walked on the sand at China Beach and had a bowl of pho at one of the nearby stalls.
After lunch we made the short drive to Hoi An, a historical town on the banks of Thu Bon River. Our tour here began by way of the Japanese Covered Bridge, which is the town's most famous landmark. We walked to Tran Phu Street where there are attractive buildings and assembly halls located. These buildings are a blend of French, Chinese, and Japanese architecture. We visited a typical Hoi An home with its unique architecture and a Busshist temple. We arrived at our hotel, Vinh Hung Resort, late in the afternoon. The lovely resort has several buildings with rooms surrounding the swimming pool. Although the walk to town is short, we decided to eat at the resort. We had a delicious meal and an enjoyable evening.
The next day we returned to Hoi An and visited the market, and asked lots of questions about the products there. Hoi An is one of the best places in Vietnam to shop for locally made products e.g., embroidery, silks, carvings, and other handicrafts. We also had a leisurely stroll through the small streets and byways. We had a planned trip to Marble Mountain, but we decided to spend more time in Hoi An instead. We did stop on our way to the airport for a view of this historic mountain. Vinh assisted us with all the necessary arrangements for our departure. He was intelligent, knowledgeable, and sensitive to our needs.
Our flight to HCMC(formerly Saigon) was delayed by about an hour due to the late arrival of the plane. It is amazing that a 777 was used for this one-hour flight and the plane was totally full. Our guide, Mr. Que, and driver met us at the airport and made the short trip to our hotel, Oscar. This was the least desirable of the hotels in which we stayed. The room was dark, the lighting was inadequate, there were no hand towels, and the staff was not friendly or accommodating. We asked for a different room, but they said none was available. The breakfast was in no way comparable to the others we had throughout this trip. Que had given us recommendations for restaurants in the area. We went to one of those for dinner and had a delicious meal.
We left early the next morning fora full day cruise on the Mekong Delta. The drive from the City to the Delta is long and arduous. We boarded a motorized boat at My Tho, which took us to Ben Tre to visit a coconut candy workshop and enjoy singing by the children and adults of the family at the workshop. We boarded a small sampan and were rowed through the canals to our next stop at Unicorn Island. Here we visited a honeybee farm and had tea sweetened with honey. We traveled to the Island for lunch, riding in a horse-drawn cart to reach the restaurant. We ate in a small gazebo overlooking one of the canals and were served a tasty local fish. This would have been a more pleasant experience if our waiter had not spend the entire time implying that he wanted a large tip. He seemed unhappy with the tip we left him, although it was more than generous. We returned to our boat to make the trip across the waterway and to our vehicle for the return trip to HCMC. That evening we walked in the area surrounding the hotel,stopped at several shops, and ate at another of the nearby restaurants.
Our final day in Vietnam was spent sightseeing in HCMC. We began with a tour of Ben Thanh Market, one of the city's most famous landmarks. It is a huge covered market in the center of the city that has lots of consumer goods, fresh fruits and vegetables, meats, seafood, coffee, and everything else that goes into making Vietnam's delicious cuisine. We could have easily spent the entire day here, but it was on to other sights. Next we visited the Giac Lam Pagoda, and then other buildings that are examples of the French Colonial architecture, including the Central Post Office and Notre Dame Cathedral. We passed by the City Theatre, where the film "The Quiet American" was shot. We spent a long time in Reunification Palace, which is remembered for its role in the fall of the South Vietnam government in 1975 when the North Vietnamese tanks crashed through the gates and the soldiers hung the North Vietnam flag from the balcony. We also visited the War Remnants Museum and, although the exhibits were slanted toward anti-American propaganda, we found this to be a moving experience. After checking out of the hotel and having lunch at a local pho restaurant, we took a tour of Chinatown before being taken to the airport for our departure from Vietnam.
We had a wonderful trip and we plan to return to the region to visit other parts of Vietnam, Cambodia, and Laos. When we go back we will definitely use Sisters Tours Vietnam again!
Our Hanoi guide, Mr. Thuy Lam(thuylamvn@gmail.com), met us at the airport in Hanoi, took our passports, and obtained our visas for us. Sisters Tours had done all the preliminary paperwork and arranged for us to get the visas once in Hanoi. We were taken to the Zephyr Hotel, an excellent hotel, in downtown Hanoi. Lam, as he told us to call him, met us early the next morning for a fun-filled day of sightseeing. We toured the French Quarter bordering Ba Dinh Square, which is the political center of Hanoi. We also visited Ho Chi Minh's last residence within the grounds of the former French Governor-General's Palace and the One Pillar Pagoda, one of the few structures remaining from the original foundation of the city. Our itinerary included a visit to Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, but it was closed in order to service his embalmed body. Next, we were off to the excellent Ethnology Museum, which contains artifacts, photographs, and documentaries of practices and rituals of Vietnam's majority Kinh and 53 minority people. A special exhibition, Hanoi Under The Subsidy Economy (1975-1986), chronicles the decade after the communist government oversaw a disastrous experiment in Stalinist collectivism. My husband and I were saddened by the experiences of the Vietnamese people during this time, but Lam filled us with hope for his future and the future of his country. After the museum, we were treated to a special dining experience at Koto, a training restaurant for underprivileged young people. Lam helped us select from the day's specialities and assisted with the order. (Bill Clinton and other dignitaries have eaten here.) We had a short time after lunch to visit the nearby Craft Link, which is a not-for-profit organization that seeks to assist small craft producers (NGOs) to find markets for their products. We did not want to be late for the performance at the water puppets theatre, so we decided on a return visit later. The water puppets show was magical with live music and colorful puppets, and highly skilled puppeteers. We spent a delightful evening with Diep, who treated us to a delicious meal at a local restaurant.
Lam arrived at 8:30am for our 3.5 hour drive to Ha Long Bay, which gave us the opportunity to see the countryside with farms and rice fields. Shortly after our arrival Lam and the two of us embarked on a classic junk. There were 18 guests and 4 guides plus the crew on the junk. We checked in and had lunch cruising in the bay on our way to Thien Cung Cave. The hike through the cave allowed for spectacular views. Once back on the junk we traveled to another area of the bay, got into small boats, and paddled around for more stunning sights. After our evening meal we had an enjoyable conversation with lam about Vietnamese culture past and present. After a quiet and restful night on board, the crew awakened us in time for breakfast. We then traveled to an island for a swim and/or a climb up a hill for splendid views of the bay. We had an early lunch on board as we returned to the harbor, where our driver met us. We had mentioned to Lam that we would like to see the Hoa Lo Prison (Hanoi Hilton), the place where John McCain was imprisoned. He arranged for us to do this on our return to Hanoi, after which he dropped us off at the Craft Link and arranged for the people at the shop to get us a taxi back to the Zephyr Hotel. We had to leave the hotel at 4:30am for our 6:30am flight to Hue. Lam met us with our tickets for this flight and the final flight to HCMC. Once at the airport he checked our luggage and got our boarding passes. It was difficult to say our goodbyes because we had grown so fond of him. He was one of the best tour guides we have ever had.
We arrived in Hue after our short flight, and were met at the airport by our next guide, Mr. Vinh(vinhha123@yahoo.com), who was also an excellent guide. Vinh and the driver took us first to the Hotel Saigon Morin, where we stayed on the recently renovated third floor in one of the superb deluxe rooms. After a delicious breakfast in the hotel's dining room, we met Vinh for our tour of Hue, which was the ancient capital of southern Vietnam during the 18th century. Our tour began at the Imperial City, which is built on the same principles as the Forbidden City in Beijing and where Vietnam's kings once ruled. The Imperial City was constructed in 1804 and is square in shape. While we walked through the different areas, Vinh explained what we would see and what we would not able to see because of destruction from the war and natural disasters. He also provided us with the history and traditions of the Imperial Court. Next we went to Thien Mu Pagoda located on the north bank of the Perfume River and the oldest monastery in Hue. We then returned to the hotel for a nap after the early morning departure. We walked in the city and along the Perfume River waterfront in the late afternoon. Across from the hotel we found an outside restaurant, Thien Dang, along the riverfront. The food was delicious and the atmosphere was great. Overall this was one of our favorite dining experiences in Vietnam. The next morning we informed Vinh that we wanted to visit one of the seven imperial tombs, although that was not part of our itinerary. He agreed and helped us chose the Tomb of Tu Duc. The complex is enclosed by a wall and includes a lake with lotuses and water hyacinths. There is an island in the lake that has replicas of famous temples built by the king. The Xung Khiem Pavilion, which was recently restored, is considered the most attractive building here.
The drive from Hue to Danang along Highway 1 is considered one of the most scenic in Vietnam. This drive takes approximately 3 hours and consists of steep climbs with hairpin curves along the way. The crest is reached at Hai Van pass, which forms a boundary between North and South Vietnam. There are fortifications built by the French and later used by the South Vietnamese and Americans located here. Hai Van means Pass of Ocean Clouds, because the peak of the mountain reaches to the clouds while its foot extends to the South China Sea. We descended for a panoramic view of the bowl shaped bay of Danang. Danang is a seaport town that played a prominent role in the Vietnam War and is noted for its historical significance. Centuries earlier this area was settled by the Chams, who probably immigrated into this region from Indonesia. After visiting the Museum of Champa Sculpture containing the largest collection of Cham artifacts and sculptures in the world, we walked on the sand at China Beach and had a bowl of pho at one of the nearby stalls.
After lunch we made the short drive to Hoi An, a historical town on the banks of Thu Bon River. Our tour here began by way of the Japanese Covered Bridge, which is the town's most famous landmark. We walked to Tran Phu Street where there are attractive buildings and assembly halls located. These buildings are a blend of French, Chinese, and Japanese architecture. We visited a typical Hoi An home with its unique architecture and a Busshist temple. We arrived at our hotel, Vinh Hung Resort, late in the afternoon. The lovely resort has several buildings with rooms surrounding the swimming pool. Although the walk to town is short, we decided to eat at the resort. We had a delicious meal and an enjoyable evening.
The next day we returned to Hoi An and visited the market, and asked lots of questions about the products there. Hoi An is one of the best places in Vietnam to shop for locally made products e.g., embroidery, silks, carvings, and other handicrafts. We also had a leisurely stroll through the small streets and byways. We had a planned trip to Marble Mountain, but we decided to spend more time in Hoi An instead. We did stop on our way to the airport for a view of this historic mountain. Vinh assisted us with all the necessary arrangements for our departure. He was intelligent, knowledgeable, and sensitive to our needs.
Our flight to HCMC(formerly Saigon) was delayed by about an hour due to the late arrival of the plane. It is amazing that a 777 was used for this one-hour flight and the plane was totally full. Our guide, Mr. Que, and driver met us at the airport and made the short trip to our hotel, Oscar. This was the least desirable of the hotels in which we stayed. The room was dark, the lighting was inadequate, there were no hand towels, and the staff was not friendly or accommodating. We asked for a different room, but they said none was available. The breakfast was in no way comparable to the others we had throughout this trip. Que had given us recommendations for restaurants in the area. We went to one of those for dinner and had a delicious meal.
We left early the next morning fora full day cruise on the Mekong Delta. The drive from the City to the Delta is long and arduous. We boarded a motorized boat at My Tho, which took us to Ben Tre to visit a coconut candy workshop and enjoy singing by the children and adults of the family at the workshop. We boarded a small sampan and were rowed through the canals to our next stop at Unicorn Island. Here we visited a honeybee farm and had tea sweetened with honey. We traveled to the Island for lunch, riding in a horse-drawn cart to reach the restaurant. We ate in a small gazebo overlooking one of the canals and were served a tasty local fish. This would have been a more pleasant experience if our waiter had not spend the entire time implying that he wanted a large tip. He seemed unhappy with the tip we left him, although it was more than generous. We returned to our boat to make the trip across the waterway and to our vehicle for the return trip to HCMC. That evening we walked in the area surrounding the hotel,stopped at several shops, and ate at another of the nearby restaurants.
Our final day in Vietnam was spent sightseeing in HCMC. We began with a tour of Ben Thanh Market, one of the city's most famous landmarks. It is a huge covered market in the center of the city that has lots of consumer goods, fresh fruits and vegetables, meats, seafood, coffee, and everything else that goes into making Vietnam's delicious cuisine. We could have easily spent the entire day here, but it was on to other sights. Next we visited the Giac Lam Pagoda, and then other buildings that are examples of the French Colonial architecture, including the Central Post Office and Notre Dame Cathedral. We passed by the City Theatre, where the film "The Quiet American" was shot. We spent a long time in Reunification Palace, which is remembered for its role in the fall of the South Vietnam government in 1975 when the North Vietnamese tanks crashed through the gates and the soldiers hung the North Vietnam flag from the balcony. We also visited the War Remnants Museum and, although the exhibits were slanted toward anti-American propaganda, we found this to be a moving experience. After checking out of the hotel and having lunch at a local pho restaurant, we took a tour of Chinatown before being taken to the airport for our departure from Vietnam.
We had a wonderful trip and we plan to return to the region to visit other parts of Vietnam, Cambodia, and Laos. When we go back we will definitely use Sisters Tours Vietnam again!
Vietnam Trip
Every big city in Asia has a street or district dedicated to electronics. In Saigon (officially called Ho Chi Minh City), that street is Nhat Tao.
Facing the street are little shops where whatever is being done is done right out on the sidewalk. Here is somebody repairing speakers:
Behind the shops are a maze of passages with little stalls, each specializing in selling a particular type of component, i.e. capacitors, resistors, semiconductors, wire, etc. This is very similar to what I’ve seen in the Akihabara district in Tokyo, although the technology is more down-scale. In the far back are parts that have been scavenged from old equipment - nothing goes to waste.
The average level of consumer audio is fairly pedestrian with lots of local “no-name” brands. Very popular are karaoke systems - these are the boxes with all the knobs. Looking at one of these closely showed that it featured “Around Sound”, hopefully something better than surround sound.
I did see one “high-end” store, which I planned to visit after the Cambodia trip. However, we returned on new-year’s eve (Tet, or the lunar new year), and between then and when I flew back to America, all the shops were closed for the holiday.
The kids in Nhat Tao keep busy, but not necessarily with electronics:
Given that Vietnam is a Marxist-Communist country, it is filled with propaganda banners and hammer and sickles, which is a bit incongruous with the rampant capitalism happening at the street level. Of course there are the heroic statues (this one is just outside Can Tho):
One down-side of the communist government is the omnipresence of the propaganda speakers. These are closed-circuit PA systems that broadcast music, “news”, and other propaganda through towns and villages. The technology seems to be fiber-glass re-entrant horn PA speakers mounted on power poles or atop government buildings. This was mainly used during the hard-core communist era, but thankfully seems to be to be in retreat. I only heard them in a few small villages. This is not just a communist phenomena - this was present in Thailand, and I heard them spewing right-wing propaganda while I was there in 1993. From an audio point of view, it was quite obnoxious, even though I didn’t understand much of what they were saying.
I said that I wouldn’t stray from the audio theme, but I can’t resist showing a bit of Cambodia. This is what happens when you let the plants get out of control (at Angkor Wat):
Thursday, May 31, 2007
Vietnam Sapa
Sapa began life as a hilltop retreat for the French rulers desperate to escape the heat of the Vietnamese plains. They chose the lofty cool of Fansipan's surrounds and it's easy to see why -- the heat and hustle and bustle of Vietnam seems to drop away from the mountains peaks -- their nether regions skirted with finely sculptured emerald green rice terraces stretching away towards the coast.
Here you can come into close contact with a multitude of ethnic minorities -- Red Dao, Thai, H'mong, Muong and other minorities who have built their lives between the horns of the mountains, the colossus of China and the rapidly encroaching lowland Vietnamese. Staggeringly basic, these people's lives and lifestyles can offer a fascinating glimpse seemingly stolen from history and for many first-time visitors to Vietnam, the time spent in Sapa and its surrounds form an absolute highlight of their trip.
While the town is undoubtably overtouristed, there's nevertheless an appeal to Sapa which even the most jaded traveller will grudgingly acknowledge. The villagers, often having trudged for miles to get into Sapa, pound the streets -- day in, day out -- selling handfuls of bracelets made of cloth, quilts humped over arms and volumes of woven fabrics to a seemingly never-ending strem of backpackers and tourists. It's a touristic experience, and there's simply no avoiding it.
In their striking dress, full red or black with vampire like capes, curled and piled hair or thronged jewellery these villagers surprise with both their ruthless selling prowess and sudden candour -- be assured, their cunning and well developed sales routines come just as naturally as their giggles and smiles.
Such facts are both charming and infuriating. At times it can be near impossible to move for squads of diminutive women and children thrusting brocade into your unwilling hands and get used to having the serenity of a moment's contemplation interupted by the insistent mantra -- "you buy for me", "you buy for me". Escape lies in the hotel bars, restaurants, swimming pools and dramatically hung balconies that will entrap you just as sugared milk snares weary flies.
Here you can come into close contact with a multitude of ethnic minorities -- Red Dao, Thai, H'mong, Muong and other minorities who have built their lives between the horns of the mountains, the colossus of China and the rapidly encroaching lowland Vietnamese. Staggeringly basic, these people's lives and lifestyles can offer a fascinating glimpse seemingly stolen from history and for many first-time visitors to Vietnam, the time spent in Sapa and its surrounds form an absolute highlight of their trip.
While the town is undoubtably overtouristed, there's nevertheless an appeal to Sapa which even the most jaded traveller will grudgingly acknowledge. The villagers, often having trudged for miles to get into Sapa, pound the streets -- day in, day out -- selling handfuls of bracelets made of cloth, quilts humped over arms and volumes of woven fabrics to a seemingly never-ending strem of backpackers and tourists. It's a touristic experience, and there's simply no avoiding it.
In their striking dress, full red or black with vampire like capes, curled and piled hair or thronged jewellery these villagers surprise with both their ruthless selling prowess and sudden candour -- be assured, their cunning and well developed sales routines come just as naturally as their giggles and smiles.
Such facts are both charming and infuriating. At times it can be near impossible to move for squads of diminutive women and children thrusting brocade into your unwilling hands and get used to having the serenity of a moment's contemplation interupted by the insistent mantra -- "you buy for me", "you buy for me". Escape lies in the hotel bars, restaurants, swimming pools and dramatically hung balconies that will entrap you just as sugared milk snares weary flies.
Vietnam Hoi An
The UN's cultural agency listed the historic and quaint trading town of Hoi An as a World Heritage site in 1999. The riverine town is an exceptionally well-preserved example of a 15th to 19th century Southeast Asian trading port. Hoi An's "buildings and its street pattern reflect the influences, both indigenous and foreign, that combined to produce this unique heritage site," UNESCO says. The listing has given Hoi An the resources and impetus to better protect and maintain its wonderful architecture, which now attracts tourists by the droves.
Historians believe that Hoi An existed more than 2,000 years ago as a primitive port for the Sa Huynh people, thanks to evidence from archaeological excavations which have also pointed towards early trade with the Han dynasty in China. Through to the 15th century, the port was absorbed into the Kingdom of Champa and was known first as Lam Ap and later as Faifo. During this period, it developed into a prosperous trading port visited by trading fleets from as far afield as the Arabian peninsula. As a hub of regional trade, Hoi An brought considerable affluence to the Champa Kingdom, evidence of which can be seen at nearby My Son.
The number of traders visiting Hoi An escalated as the centuries marched on, with the Portuguese, Dutch, British and French all making an appearance, along with the ever-present Chinese, Japanese and Indians. The majority of Hoi An's most beautiful buildings were constructed from the 15th to 19th centuries.
Hoi An's star began to fade as trade slowly moved north to the larger and more industrial port of Danang. Today, little trade occurs aside from tourist boats, and only small-scale fishing boats use the port commercially.
While many are attracted to Hoi An by the graceful, pastel-coloured buildings, others are lured by an abundance of shopping. This is the place to get an entirely new wardrobe for US$200, including shoes. Why stop at a makeover for yourself? Snap up Chinese lanterns, crockery and lacquerware for a household makeover as well. The downside of Hoi An's shopping is that the number of stores has become quite ridiculous and after a few days of constant badgering by touts and salespeople you may be ready to flee. A ban on any new shops opening was recently enacted, but it's a shame the authorities didn't think about this a few years ago.
If you visit, do think about what clothes you'd like from the tailors and shoes you'll get your cobblers to sew up. Once you arrive, the choices are limitless and overwhelming, and you're likely to end up spending more than you expect. It's difficult to recommend any tailors in particular as so many do excellent jobs, so if you're thinking of getting a lot of clothes made, try a few on your first day -- say, get a shirt made at one, a skirt at another and a dress at a third. Most will have the piece ready for trying on by the end of the day, which will give you a chance to assess quality and choose the best one before really going wild.
Historians believe that Hoi An existed more than 2,000 years ago as a primitive port for the Sa Huynh people, thanks to evidence from archaeological excavations which have also pointed towards early trade with the Han dynasty in China. Through to the 15th century, the port was absorbed into the Kingdom of Champa and was known first as Lam Ap and later as Faifo. During this period, it developed into a prosperous trading port visited by trading fleets from as far afield as the Arabian peninsula. As a hub of regional trade, Hoi An brought considerable affluence to the Champa Kingdom, evidence of which can be seen at nearby My Son.
The number of traders visiting Hoi An escalated as the centuries marched on, with the Portuguese, Dutch, British and French all making an appearance, along with the ever-present Chinese, Japanese and Indians. The majority of Hoi An's most beautiful buildings were constructed from the 15th to 19th centuries.
Hoi An's star began to fade as trade slowly moved north to the larger and more industrial port of Danang. Today, little trade occurs aside from tourist boats, and only small-scale fishing boats use the port commercially.
While many are attracted to Hoi An by the graceful, pastel-coloured buildings, others are lured by an abundance of shopping. This is the place to get an entirely new wardrobe for US$200, including shoes. Why stop at a makeover for yourself? Snap up Chinese lanterns, crockery and lacquerware for a household makeover as well. The downside of Hoi An's shopping is that the number of stores has become quite ridiculous and after a few days of constant badgering by touts and salespeople you may be ready to flee. A ban on any new shops opening was recently enacted, but it's a shame the authorities didn't think about this a few years ago.
If you visit, do think about what clothes you'd like from the tailors and shoes you'll get your cobblers to sew up. Once you arrive, the choices are limitless and overwhelming, and you're likely to end up spending more than you expect. It's difficult to recommend any tailors in particular as so many do excellent jobs, so if you're thinking of getting a lot of clothes made, try a few on your first day -- say, get a shirt made at one, a skirt at another and a dress at a third. Most will have the piece ready for trying on by the end of the day, which will give you a chance to assess quality and choose the best one before really going wild.
Vietnam Da Lat
Unabashedly kitch Da Lat tends to either charm or repulse. The town's penchant for Disneylandesque "attractions" leaves many scratching their head. For others however, the stunning rural scenery, cool climate and somewhat avant-garde student scene more than compensate for the undeniably appalling taste displayed across Da Lat, the capital of Vietnam's Lam Dong province.
The town was established in 1897 after explorers decided it would make a fine resort centre. At the time, the region formed a part of French Cochinchina and offered an ideal escape from the steaming delta plains which were home to Saigon. With an altitude of 1,500m, an average temperature of just 17 degrees and dawns often bathed in early-morning mist, it's easy to see the attractions the early explorers (which included bacteriologist Alexandre Yersin, whose name you'll see adorning street signs across Vietnam) saw in the place.
Following the establishment of Da Lat, the first hotels appeared in the early 20th century and within a relatively short span of time the colonialists endowed the city with a wealth of villas and boulevards -- many of which remain today. By the 1930's an estimated 20% of the population was French. By the middle of the 20th century there were boarding schools, seminaries and military colleges and throughout the Second World War, Da Lat was the capital of the Federation of Indochina.
The province of Lam Dong was once rich in wildlife and Da Lat was for a while the epicentre of Vietnam's hunting "scene". This popularity as a hunting destination nicely blended with the Vietnamese penchant for flaunting one's possessions -- for a long time some of the tattier taxidermied creatures littered the walls of many an establishment -- though thankfully they're all long gone.
Aside from turning the area into one great game park, locals took advantage of the region's particularly fertile soils and today Lam Dong province is one of Vietnam's top-performing agricultural provinces. Da Lat fresh produce -- especially its tomatoes and strawberries -- can be found as far afield as Phnom Penh and even Bangkok. There's also a burgeoning coffee and tea trade (though we think the Buon Ma Thuot blends are better) and a massive trade in cut flowers. A nascent wine-making industry is slowly developing -- while the best grape-growing ares can be found in nearby Binh Thuan and Ninh Thuan, a French-Vietnamese facility with an annual capacity of some one million litres was opened in Da Lat in early 2007.
Outside Da Lat town you'll find individual villages specialising in the cultivation of this or that -- often giving you the opportunity to find out just how mushrooms or strawberries are grown and harvested. All this makes for particularly scenic sightseeing and the central market, with its wealth of berries, fruits and flowere in unlike any other in the region.
Today, with a population of 120,000 (1999), Da Lat is one of Vietnam's premiere destination for kitch-hardened domestic tourists. For honeymooners in particular, Da Lat is where the action is -- even if it involves nothing more than a series of tacky happy snaps by Xuan Huong lake.
For non-honeymooning foreign tourists, Da Lat offers an excellent opportunity to explore some of Vietnam's hinterland, sample its outstanding produce and vacation alongside Vietnamese holidaymakers. So savour the food, do a motorcycle trip with the Easy Riders and swap addresses with some locals on the banks of Xuan Huong Lake.
Orientation
There are two banks within two minutes walking distance of the market in central Da Lat. One is Sacombank at the top of the steps, 32 Khu Hoa Binh, Da Lat, T: (063) 549 045. Opening hours are Mon-Fri 07:30-11:30 & 13:30-17:00, also open on Saturday mornings. The other, down on the same level as the market, is Vietcombank - 6 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St, T: (063) 510 479, F: (063) 510 480. Both banks have international serviced ATM's, as do numerous hotels around town.
Da Lat's main post office is located under the model of the Eiffel Tower at 14 Tran Phu St , T: (063) 822 586) although the location will be moved to a new premises in early 2007 at 02 Le Dai Hanh St, T: (063) 819999. The office is open daily from 07:30-21:00.
In the event of a medical emergency, Da Lat is well served by Lam Dong Hospital at 4 Pham Ngoc Thach St, T: (063) 821 369. For criminal offences, report the matter immediately to the hotel owner, who can then help you to file a report at the nearest police station.
The town was established in 1897 after explorers decided it would make a fine resort centre. At the time, the region formed a part of French Cochinchina and offered an ideal escape from the steaming delta plains which were home to Saigon. With an altitude of 1,500m, an average temperature of just 17 degrees and dawns often bathed in early-morning mist, it's easy to see the attractions the early explorers (which included bacteriologist Alexandre Yersin, whose name you'll see adorning street signs across Vietnam) saw in the place.
Following the establishment of Da Lat, the first hotels appeared in the early 20th century and within a relatively short span of time the colonialists endowed the city with a wealth of villas and boulevards -- many of which remain today. By the 1930's an estimated 20% of the population was French. By the middle of the 20th century there were boarding schools, seminaries and military colleges and throughout the Second World War, Da Lat was the capital of the Federation of Indochina.
The province of Lam Dong was once rich in wildlife and Da Lat was for a while the epicentre of Vietnam's hunting "scene". This popularity as a hunting destination nicely blended with the Vietnamese penchant for flaunting one's possessions -- for a long time some of the tattier taxidermied creatures littered the walls of many an establishment -- though thankfully they're all long gone.
Aside from turning the area into one great game park, locals took advantage of the region's particularly fertile soils and today Lam Dong province is one of Vietnam's top-performing agricultural provinces. Da Lat fresh produce -- especially its tomatoes and strawberries -- can be found as far afield as Phnom Penh and even Bangkok. There's also a burgeoning coffee and tea trade (though we think the Buon Ma Thuot blends are better) and a massive trade in cut flowers. A nascent wine-making industry is slowly developing -- while the best grape-growing ares can be found in nearby Binh Thuan and Ninh Thuan, a French-Vietnamese facility with an annual capacity of some one million litres was opened in Da Lat in early 2007.
Outside Da Lat town you'll find individual villages specialising in the cultivation of this or that -- often giving you the opportunity to find out just how mushrooms or strawberries are grown and harvested. All this makes for particularly scenic sightseeing and the central market, with its wealth of berries, fruits and flowere in unlike any other in the region.
Today, with a population of 120,000 (1999), Da Lat is one of Vietnam's premiere destination for kitch-hardened domestic tourists. For honeymooners in particular, Da Lat is where the action is -- even if it involves nothing more than a series of tacky happy snaps by Xuan Huong lake.
For non-honeymooning foreign tourists, Da Lat offers an excellent opportunity to explore some of Vietnam's hinterland, sample its outstanding produce and vacation alongside Vietnamese holidaymakers. So savour the food, do a motorcycle trip with the Easy Riders and swap addresses with some locals on the banks of Xuan Huong Lake.
Orientation
There are two banks within two minutes walking distance of the market in central Da Lat. One is Sacombank at the top of the steps, 32 Khu Hoa Binh, Da Lat, T: (063) 549 045. Opening hours are Mon-Fri 07:30-11:30 & 13:30-17:00, also open on Saturday mornings. The other, down on the same level as the market, is Vietcombank - 6 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St, T: (063) 510 479, F: (063) 510 480. Both banks have international serviced ATM's, as do numerous hotels around town.
Da Lat's main post office is located under the model of the Eiffel Tower at 14 Tran Phu St , T: (063) 822 586) although the location will be moved to a new premises in early 2007 at 02 Le Dai Hanh St, T: (063) 819999. The office is open daily from 07:30-21:00.
In the event of a medical emergency, Da Lat is well served by Lam Dong Hospital at 4 Pham Ngoc Thach St, T: (063) 821 369. For criminal offences, report the matter immediately to the hotel owner, who can then help you to file a report at the nearest police station.
Vietnam Hanoi
Of the four great post colonial Indochinese cities, Hanoi, the capital of Vietnam, is by far the greenest and most beautiful. Huge fig trees shelter vendors selling everything from noodles and rice to a shoe shine or a patch for your puncture, along wide sweeping boulevards.
Though considerably quieter than big sister Saigon, Hanoi still retains a vibrant atmosphere -- from the early hours until late in the night, the streets are swarmed by careening bikes, often with four, five or six people aboard. A cyclo is available on most street corners, but unless you are planning a particularly long trip, the best way to explore Hanoi is by foot.
It seems in Hanoi that no two streets meet at ninety degrees, so you can count on getting lost, and spending hours wandering the meandering streets of the city. A map is invaluable during this kind of Hanoi excursion, as when you find something that really tickles your fancy, without a map, you can count on not being able to find it again.
Hanoi has a number of lovely parks and museums where you can while away the hours of a warm summer’s afternoon, and some nice cafes suited to the cold winter mornings. One thing the people of Hanoi can really thank the French for is their pastries. Hanoi has a plentiful and delicious collection of pastry stores spread all over the city. The pastries are without par in Vietnam and very cheap, making for a delicious snack or meal.
Finally, we found the people of Hanoi to be some of the warmest and most approachable in the country. Though English is not as commonly spoken as in the South, many of the older generation have a working vocabulary of French. Regardless of language, people will attempt to have a conversation with you irrespective of whether you can understand them. Many of the cyclo drivers speak some English and often have very interesting pasts that they are now willing to discuss with foreigners.
At times in Hanoi, you could be sitting in a cafe sipping excellent coffee, eating great pastry, chatting in French to an old beret clad gentleman, whilst as you look out the window you can see the great French style buildings in the shadows of fig trees. At times like these you can really wonder just what country you really are in. Hanoi, a city to be savoured.
Though considerably quieter than big sister Saigon, Hanoi still retains a vibrant atmosphere -- from the early hours until late in the night, the streets are swarmed by careening bikes, often with four, five or six people aboard. A cyclo is available on most street corners, but unless you are planning a particularly long trip, the best way to explore Hanoi is by foot.
It seems in Hanoi that no two streets meet at ninety degrees, so you can count on getting lost, and spending hours wandering the meandering streets of the city. A map is invaluable during this kind of Hanoi excursion, as when you find something that really tickles your fancy, without a map, you can count on not being able to find it again.
Hanoi has a number of lovely parks and museums where you can while away the hours of a warm summer’s afternoon, and some nice cafes suited to the cold winter mornings. One thing the people of Hanoi can really thank the French for is their pastries. Hanoi has a plentiful and delicious collection of pastry stores spread all over the city. The pastries are without par in Vietnam and very cheap, making for a delicious snack or meal.
Finally, we found the people of Hanoi to be some of the warmest and most approachable in the country. Though English is not as commonly spoken as in the South, many of the older generation have a working vocabulary of French. Regardless of language, people will attempt to have a conversation with you irrespective of whether you can understand them. Many of the cyclo drivers speak some English and often have very interesting pasts that they are now willing to discuss with foreigners.
At times in Hanoi, you could be sitting in a cafe sipping excellent coffee, eating great pastry, chatting in French to an old beret clad gentleman, whilst as you look out the window you can see the great French style buildings in the shadows of fig trees. At times like these you can really wonder just what country you really are in. Hanoi, a city to be savoured.
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