Sapa began life as a hilltop retreat for the French rulers desperate to escape the heat of the Vietnamese plains. They chose the lofty cool of Fansipan's surrounds and it's easy to see why -- the heat and hustle and bustle of Vietnam seems to drop away from the mountains peaks -- their nether regions skirted with finely sculptured emerald green rice terraces stretching away towards the coast.
Here you can come into close contact with a multitude of ethnic minorities -- Red Dao, Thai, H'mong, Muong and other minorities who have built their lives between the horns of the mountains, the colossus of China and the rapidly encroaching lowland Vietnamese. Staggeringly basic, these people's lives and lifestyles can offer a fascinating glimpse seemingly stolen from history and for many first-time visitors to Vietnam, the time spent in Sapa and its surrounds form an absolute highlight of their trip.
While the town is undoubtably overtouristed, there's nevertheless an appeal to Sapa which even the most jaded traveller will grudgingly acknowledge. The villagers, often having trudged for miles to get into Sapa, pound the streets -- day in, day out -- selling handfuls of bracelets made of cloth, quilts humped over arms and volumes of woven fabrics to a seemingly never-ending strem of backpackers and tourists. It's a touristic experience, and there's simply no avoiding it.
In their striking dress, full red or black with vampire like capes, curled and piled hair or thronged jewellery these villagers surprise with both their ruthless selling prowess and sudden candour -- be assured, their cunning and well developed sales routines come just as naturally as their giggles and smiles.
Such facts are both charming and infuriating. At times it can be near impossible to move for squads of diminutive women and children thrusting brocade into your unwilling hands and get used to having the serenity of a moment's contemplation interupted by the insistent mantra -- "you buy for me", "you buy for me". Escape lies in the hotel bars, restaurants, swimming pools and dramatically hung balconies that will entrap you just as sugared milk snares weary flies.
Thursday, May 31, 2007
Vietnam Hoi An
The UN's cultural agency listed the historic and quaint trading town of Hoi An as a World Heritage site in 1999. The riverine town is an exceptionally well-preserved example of a 15th to 19th century Southeast Asian trading port. Hoi An's "buildings and its street pattern reflect the influences, both indigenous and foreign, that combined to produce this unique heritage site," UNESCO says. The listing has given Hoi An the resources and impetus to better protect and maintain its wonderful architecture, which now attracts tourists by the droves.
Historians believe that Hoi An existed more than 2,000 years ago as a primitive port for the Sa Huynh people, thanks to evidence from archaeological excavations which have also pointed towards early trade with the Han dynasty in China. Through to the 15th century, the port was absorbed into the Kingdom of Champa and was known first as Lam Ap and later as Faifo. During this period, it developed into a prosperous trading port visited by trading fleets from as far afield as the Arabian peninsula. As a hub of regional trade, Hoi An brought considerable affluence to the Champa Kingdom, evidence of which can be seen at nearby My Son.
The number of traders visiting Hoi An escalated as the centuries marched on, with the Portuguese, Dutch, British and French all making an appearance, along with the ever-present Chinese, Japanese and Indians. The majority of Hoi An's most beautiful buildings were constructed from the 15th to 19th centuries.
Hoi An's star began to fade as trade slowly moved north to the larger and more industrial port of Danang. Today, little trade occurs aside from tourist boats, and only small-scale fishing boats use the port commercially.
While many are attracted to Hoi An by the graceful, pastel-coloured buildings, others are lured by an abundance of shopping. This is the place to get an entirely new wardrobe for US$200, including shoes. Why stop at a makeover for yourself? Snap up Chinese lanterns, crockery and lacquerware for a household makeover as well. The downside of Hoi An's shopping is that the number of stores has become quite ridiculous and after a few days of constant badgering by touts and salespeople you may be ready to flee. A ban on any new shops opening was recently enacted, but it's a shame the authorities didn't think about this a few years ago.
If you visit, do think about what clothes you'd like from the tailors and shoes you'll get your cobblers to sew up. Once you arrive, the choices are limitless and overwhelming, and you're likely to end up spending more than you expect. It's difficult to recommend any tailors in particular as so many do excellent jobs, so if you're thinking of getting a lot of clothes made, try a few on your first day -- say, get a shirt made at one, a skirt at another and a dress at a third. Most will have the piece ready for trying on by the end of the day, which will give you a chance to assess quality and choose the best one before really going wild.
Historians believe that Hoi An existed more than 2,000 years ago as a primitive port for the Sa Huynh people, thanks to evidence from archaeological excavations which have also pointed towards early trade with the Han dynasty in China. Through to the 15th century, the port was absorbed into the Kingdom of Champa and was known first as Lam Ap and later as Faifo. During this period, it developed into a prosperous trading port visited by trading fleets from as far afield as the Arabian peninsula. As a hub of regional trade, Hoi An brought considerable affluence to the Champa Kingdom, evidence of which can be seen at nearby My Son.
The number of traders visiting Hoi An escalated as the centuries marched on, with the Portuguese, Dutch, British and French all making an appearance, along with the ever-present Chinese, Japanese and Indians. The majority of Hoi An's most beautiful buildings were constructed from the 15th to 19th centuries.
Hoi An's star began to fade as trade slowly moved north to the larger and more industrial port of Danang. Today, little trade occurs aside from tourist boats, and only small-scale fishing boats use the port commercially.
While many are attracted to Hoi An by the graceful, pastel-coloured buildings, others are lured by an abundance of shopping. This is the place to get an entirely new wardrobe for US$200, including shoes. Why stop at a makeover for yourself? Snap up Chinese lanterns, crockery and lacquerware for a household makeover as well. The downside of Hoi An's shopping is that the number of stores has become quite ridiculous and after a few days of constant badgering by touts and salespeople you may be ready to flee. A ban on any new shops opening was recently enacted, but it's a shame the authorities didn't think about this a few years ago.
If you visit, do think about what clothes you'd like from the tailors and shoes you'll get your cobblers to sew up. Once you arrive, the choices are limitless and overwhelming, and you're likely to end up spending more than you expect. It's difficult to recommend any tailors in particular as so many do excellent jobs, so if you're thinking of getting a lot of clothes made, try a few on your first day -- say, get a shirt made at one, a skirt at another and a dress at a third. Most will have the piece ready for trying on by the end of the day, which will give you a chance to assess quality and choose the best one before really going wild.
Vietnam Da Lat
Unabashedly kitch Da Lat tends to either charm or repulse. The town's penchant for Disneylandesque "attractions" leaves many scratching their head. For others however, the stunning rural scenery, cool climate and somewhat avant-garde student scene more than compensate for the undeniably appalling taste displayed across Da Lat, the capital of Vietnam's Lam Dong province.
The town was established in 1897 after explorers decided it would make a fine resort centre. At the time, the region formed a part of French Cochinchina and offered an ideal escape from the steaming delta plains which were home to Saigon. With an altitude of 1,500m, an average temperature of just 17 degrees and dawns often bathed in early-morning mist, it's easy to see the attractions the early explorers (which included bacteriologist Alexandre Yersin, whose name you'll see adorning street signs across Vietnam) saw in the place.
Following the establishment of Da Lat, the first hotels appeared in the early 20th century and within a relatively short span of time the colonialists endowed the city with a wealth of villas and boulevards -- many of which remain today. By the 1930's an estimated 20% of the population was French. By the middle of the 20th century there were boarding schools, seminaries and military colleges and throughout the Second World War, Da Lat was the capital of the Federation of Indochina.
The province of Lam Dong was once rich in wildlife and Da Lat was for a while the epicentre of Vietnam's hunting "scene". This popularity as a hunting destination nicely blended with the Vietnamese penchant for flaunting one's possessions -- for a long time some of the tattier taxidermied creatures littered the walls of many an establishment -- though thankfully they're all long gone.
Aside from turning the area into one great game park, locals took advantage of the region's particularly fertile soils and today Lam Dong province is one of Vietnam's top-performing agricultural provinces. Da Lat fresh produce -- especially its tomatoes and strawberries -- can be found as far afield as Phnom Penh and even Bangkok. There's also a burgeoning coffee and tea trade (though we think the Buon Ma Thuot blends are better) and a massive trade in cut flowers. A nascent wine-making industry is slowly developing -- while the best grape-growing ares can be found in nearby Binh Thuan and Ninh Thuan, a French-Vietnamese facility with an annual capacity of some one million litres was opened in Da Lat in early 2007.
Outside Da Lat town you'll find individual villages specialising in the cultivation of this or that -- often giving you the opportunity to find out just how mushrooms or strawberries are grown and harvested. All this makes for particularly scenic sightseeing and the central market, with its wealth of berries, fruits and flowere in unlike any other in the region.
Today, with a population of 120,000 (1999), Da Lat is one of Vietnam's premiere destination for kitch-hardened domestic tourists. For honeymooners in particular, Da Lat is where the action is -- even if it involves nothing more than a series of tacky happy snaps by Xuan Huong lake.
For non-honeymooning foreign tourists, Da Lat offers an excellent opportunity to explore some of Vietnam's hinterland, sample its outstanding produce and vacation alongside Vietnamese holidaymakers. So savour the food, do a motorcycle trip with the Easy Riders and swap addresses with some locals on the banks of Xuan Huong Lake.
Orientation
There are two banks within two minutes walking distance of the market in central Da Lat. One is Sacombank at the top of the steps, 32 Khu Hoa Binh, Da Lat, T: (063) 549 045. Opening hours are Mon-Fri 07:30-11:30 & 13:30-17:00, also open on Saturday mornings. The other, down on the same level as the market, is Vietcombank - 6 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St, T: (063) 510 479, F: (063) 510 480. Both banks have international serviced ATM's, as do numerous hotels around town.
Da Lat's main post office is located under the model of the Eiffel Tower at 14 Tran Phu St , T: (063) 822 586) although the location will be moved to a new premises in early 2007 at 02 Le Dai Hanh St, T: (063) 819999. The office is open daily from 07:30-21:00.
In the event of a medical emergency, Da Lat is well served by Lam Dong Hospital at 4 Pham Ngoc Thach St, T: (063) 821 369. For criminal offences, report the matter immediately to the hotel owner, who can then help you to file a report at the nearest police station.
The town was established in 1897 after explorers decided it would make a fine resort centre. At the time, the region formed a part of French Cochinchina and offered an ideal escape from the steaming delta plains which were home to Saigon. With an altitude of 1,500m, an average temperature of just 17 degrees and dawns often bathed in early-morning mist, it's easy to see the attractions the early explorers (which included bacteriologist Alexandre Yersin, whose name you'll see adorning street signs across Vietnam) saw in the place.
Following the establishment of Da Lat, the first hotels appeared in the early 20th century and within a relatively short span of time the colonialists endowed the city with a wealth of villas and boulevards -- many of which remain today. By the 1930's an estimated 20% of the population was French. By the middle of the 20th century there were boarding schools, seminaries and military colleges and throughout the Second World War, Da Lat was the capital of the Federation of Indochina.
The province of Lam Dong was once rich in wildlife and Da Lat was for a while the epicentre of Vietnam's hunting "scene". This popularity as a hunting destination nicely blended with the Vietnamese penchant for flaunting one's possessions -- for a long time some of the tattier taxidermied creatures littered the walls of many an establishment -- though thankfully they're all long gone.
Aside from turning the area into one great game park, locals took advantage of the region's particularly fertile soils and today Lam Dong province is one of Vietnam's top-performing agricultural provinces. Da Lat fresh produce -- especially its tomatoes and strawberries -- can be found as far afield as Phnom Penh and even Bangkok. There's also a burgeoning coffee and tea trade (though we think the Buon Ma Thuot blends are better) and a massive trade in cut flowers. A nascent wine-making industry is slowly developing -- while the best grape-growing ares can be found in nearby Binh Thuan and Ninh Thuan, a French-Vietnamese facility with an annual capacity of some one million litres was opened in Da Lat in early 2007.
Outside Da Lat town you'll find individual villages specialising in the cultivation of this or that -- often giving you the opportunity to find out just how mushrooms or strawberries are grown and harvested. All this makes for particularly scenic sightseeing and the central market, with its wealth of berries, fruits and flowere in unlike any other in the region.
Today, with a population of 120,000 (1999), Da Lat is one of Vietnam's premiere destination for kitch-hardened domestic tourists. For honeymooners in particular, Da Lat is where the action is -- even if it involves nothing more than a series of tacky happy snaps by Xuan Huong lake.
For non-honeymooning foreign tourists, Da Lat offers an excellent opportunity to explore some of Vietnam's hinterland, sample its outstanding produce and vacation alongside Vietnamese holidaymakers. So savour the food, do a motorcycle trip with the Easy Riders and swap addresses with some locals on the banks of Xuan Huong Lake.
Orientation
There are two banks within two minutes walking distance of the market in central Da Lat. One is Sacombank at the top of the steps, 32 Khu Hoa Binh, Da Lat, T: (063) 549 045. Opening hours are Mon-Fri 07:30-11:30 & 13:30-17:00, also open on Saturday mornings. The other, down on the same level as the market, is Vietcombank - 6 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St, T: (063) 510 479, F: (063) 510 480. Both banks have international serviced ATM's, as do numerous hotels around town.
Da Lat's main post office is located under the model of the Eiffel Tower at 14 Tran Phu St , T: (063) 822 586) although the location will be moved to a new premises in early 2007 at 02 Le Dai Hanh St, T: (063) 819999. The office is open daily from 07:30-21:00.
In the event of a medical emergency, Da Lat is well served by Lam Dong Hospital at 4 Pham Ngoc Thach St, T: (063) 821 369. For criminal offences, report the matter immediately to the hotel owner, who can then help you to file a report at the nearest police station.
Vietnam Hanoi
Of the four great post colonial Indochinese cities, Hanoi, the capital of Vietnam, is by far the greenest and most beautiful. Huge fig trees shelter vendors selling everything from noodles and rice to a shoe shine or a patch for your puncture, along wide sweeping boulevards.
Though considerably quieter than big sister Saigon, Hanoi still retains a vibrant atmosphere -- from the early hours until late in the night, the streets are swarmed by careening bikes, often with four, five or six people aboard. A cyclo is available on most street corners, but unless you are planning a particularly long trip, the best way to explore Hanoi is by foot.
It seems in Hanoi that no two streets meet at ninety degrees, so you can count on getting lost, and spending hours wandering the meandering streets of the city. A map is invaluable during this kind of Hanoi excursion, as when you find something that really tickles your fancy, without a map, you can count on not being able to find it again.
Hanoi has a number of lovely parks and museums where you can while away the hours of a warm summer’s afternoon, and some nice cafes suited to the cold winter mornings. One thing the people of Hanoi can really thank the French for is their pastries. Hanoi has a plentiful and delicious collection of pastry stores spread all over the city. The pastries are without par in Vietnam and very cheap, making for a delicious snack or meal.
Finally, we found the people of Hanoi to be some of the warmest and most approachable in the country. Though English is not as commonly spoken as in the South, many of the older generation have a working vocabulary of French. Regardless of language, people will attempt to have a conversation with you irrespective of whether you can understand them. Many of the cyclo drivers speak some English and often have very interesting pasts that they are now willing to discuss with foreigners.
At times in Hanoi, you could be sitting in a cafe sipping excellent coffee, eating great pastry, chatting in French to an old beret clad gentleman, whilst as you look out the window you can see the great French style buildings in the shadows of fig trees. At times like these you can really wonder just what country you really are in. Hanoi, a city to be savoured.
Though considerably quieter than big sister Saigon, Hanoi still retains a vibrant atmosphere -- from the early hours until late in the night, the streets are swarmed by careening bikes, often with four, five or six people aboard. A cyclo is available on most street corners, but unless you are planning a particularly long trip, the best way to explore Hanoi is by foot.
It seems in Hanoi that no two streets meet at ninety degrees, so you can count on getting lost, and spending hours wandering the meandering streets of the city. A map is invaluable during this kind of Hanoi excursion, as when you find something that really tickles your fancy, without a map, you can count on not being able to find it again.
Hanoi has a number of lovely parks and museums where you can while away the hours of a warm summer’s afternoon, and some nice cafes suited to the cold winter mornings. One thing the people of Hanoi can really thank the French for is their pastries. Hanoi has a plentiful and delicious collection of pastry stores spread all over the city. The pastries are without par in Vietnam and very cheap, making for a delicious snack or meal.
Finally, we found the people of Hanoi to be some of the warmest and most approachable in the country. Though English is not as commonly spoken as in the South, many of the older generation have a working vocabulary of French. Regardless of language, people will attempt to have a conversation with you irrespective of whether you can understand them. Many of the cyclo drivers speak some English and often have very interesting pasts that they are now willing to discuss with foreigners.
At times in Hanoi, you could be sitting in a cafe sipping excellent coffee, eating great pastry, chatting in French to an old beret clad gentleman, whilst as you look out the window you can see the great French style buildings in the shadows of fig trees. At times like these you can really wonder just what country you really are in. Hanoi, a city to be savoured.
Tuesday, May 29, 2007
Vietnam Vacation Guide
Buying local.
By using locally produced goods and services, you can contribute financially to the community you are visiting and help turn tourism to the country’s benefit.
Drink and eat local food when you can.
Use local transport and local shops.
Vietnam toursOffer to repay hospitality in cash or in kind, to avoid exploiting the goodwill of others. At the same time, try to avoid paying for simple acts of kindness in cash- for example, being given directions.
Hire a local guide when visiting protected areas or historical sites. This way you will contribute to the local economy, learn more about the area, and have the opportunity to meet local people.
Giving money or gifts.
Giving money away to both children and adults promotes a begging mentality and culture. It also highlights the income gap and strips away people’s self- esteem. By avoiding cash hand- outs you can play a part in discouraging the development of a society which equates every human action as a potential money- making scheme.
Avoid giving children money or gifts, it is better to pay for a postcard, map, or a shoeshine.
Giving chocolate or sweets is a bad idea, as many people do not have access to dentists and knowledge of dental hygiene is poor.
The hard sell.
Vietnam is developing country, and one that has experienced a long period of war so poverty is obvious and unavoidable. Be prepared to be approached by street sellers, shoe shine boys, etc., or followed by empty cycles expectantly awaiting your patronage, especially in Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City and other large towns.
Vietnam toursIf a street seller approaches you, be firm but polite and calm in turning them away, even if you are irritated by a day filled with similar approaches.
Take a cycle when you can, as they are a great way to see a city and view street life at close quarters. Cycles are today losing out to taxis and xe om (motorbike taxis), so you’ll also be supporting a threatened trade.
Certain streets have seen make off- limits to cycles, so your driver may have to take an indirect route to your destination.
Negotiate prices in advance before accepting either goods from street sellers, or getting on a xe om or into a cycle.
The sex trade.
In Asia, prostitution is an unfortunate fact of life. The link between tourism and prostitution is undisputed. Be aware that prostitution is illegal in Vietnam. Be careful not to act in any way that could be seen as encouraging this, especially where children are concerned.
Don’t buy sexual services, remember that the relationship between tourists and prostitutes is almost always unequal and tends to be exploitative.
The sexual exploitation of children is a significant problem right across Asia. However, several countries now have laws which enable the trial at home of tourists who have committed crimes of paedophilia abroad. If you observe anyone known to you involved in child prostitution, you might consider reporting them to the police when you get home.
By using locally produced goods and services, you can contribute financially to the community you are visiting and help turn tourism to the country’s benefit.
Drink and eat local food when you can.
Use local transport and local shops.
Vietnam toursOffer to repay hospitality in cash or in kind, to avoid exploiting the goodwill of others. At the same time, try to avoid paying for simple acts of kindness in cash- for example, being given directions.
Hire a local guide when visiting protected areas or historical sites. This way you will contribute to the local economy, learn more about the area, and have the opportunity to meet local people.
Giving money or gifts.
Giving money away to both children and adults promotes a begging mentality and culture. It also highlights the income gap and strips away people’s self- esteem. By avoiding cash hand- outs you can play a part in discouraging the development of a society which equates every human action as a potential money- making scheme.
Avoid giving children money or gifts, it is better to pay for a postcard, map, or a shoeshine.
Giving chocolate or sweets is a bad idea, as many people do not have access to dentists and knowledge of dental hygiene is poor.
The hard sell.
Vietnam is developing country, and one that has experienced a long period of war so poverty is obvious and unavoidable. Be prepared to be approached by street sellers, shoe shine boys, etc., or followed by empty cycles expectantly awaiting your patronage, especially in Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City and other large towns.
Vietnam toursIf a street seller approaches you, be firm but polite and calm in turning them away, even if you are irritated by a day filled with similar approaches.
Take a cycle when you can, as they are a great way to see a city and view street life at close quarters. Cycles are today losing out to taxis and xe om (motorbike taxis), so you’ll also be supporting a threatened trade.
Certain streets have seen make off- limits to cycles, so your driver may have to take an indirect route to your destination.
Negotiate prices in advance before accepting either goods from street sellers, or getting on a xe om or into a cycle.
The sex trade.
In Asia, prostitution is an unfortunate fact of life. The link between tourism and prostitution is undisputed. Be aware that prostitution is illegal in Vietnam. Be careful not to act in any way that could be seen as encouraging this, especially where children are concerned.
Don’t buy sexual services, remember that the relationship between tourists and prostitutes is almost always unequal and tends to be exploitative.
The sexual exploitation of children is a significant problem right across Asia. However, several countries now have laws which enable the trial at home of tourists who have committed crimes of paedophilia abroad. If you observe anyone known to you involved in child prostitution, you might consider reporting them to the police when you get home.
Monday, May 28, 2007
Vietnam Vacation Guide
Most visitors to Vietnam are overwhelmed by the sublime beauty of the country's natural setting: the Red River Delta in the north, the Mekong Delta in the south and almost the entire coastal strip are a patchwork of brilliant green rice paddies tended by women in conical hats.
There are some divine beaches along the coast, while inland there are soaring mountains, some of which are cloaked by dense, misty forests. Vietnam also offers an opportunity to see a country of traditional charm and rare beauty rapidly opening up to the outside world.
When To Go
There are no good or bad seasons to visit Vietnam. When one region is wet, cold or steamy hot, there is always somewhere else that is sunny and pleasant. Basically, the south has two seasons: the wet (May to November, wettest from June to August) and the dry (December to April). The hottest and most humid time is from the end of February to May. The central coast is dry from May to October and wet from December to February. The highland areas are significantly cooler than the lowlands, and temperatures can get down to freezing in winter. The north has two seasons: cool, damp winters (November to April) and hot summers (May to October). There is the possibility of typhoons between July and November, affecting the north and central areas.
Travellers should take the Tet Festival (late January or early February) into account when planning a trip. Travel (including international travel) becomes very difficult, hotels are full and many services close down for at least a week and possibly a lot longer.
There are some divine beaches along the coast, while inland there are soaring mountains, some of which are cloaked by dense, misty forests. Vietnam also offers an opportunity to see a country of traditional charm and rare beauty rapidly opening up to the outside world.
When To Go
There are no good or bad seasons to visit Vietnam. When one region is wet, cold or steamy hot, there is always somewhere else that is sunny and pleasant. Basically, the south has two seasons: the wet (May to November, wettest from June to August) and the dry (December to April). The hottest and most humid time is from the end of February to May. The central coast is dry from May to October and wet from December to February. The highland areas are significantly cooler than the lowlands, and temperatures can get down to freezing in winter. The north has two seasons: cool, damp winters (November to April) and hot summers (May to October). There is the possibility of typhoons between July and November, affecting the north and central areas.
Travellers should take the Tet Festival (late January or early February) into account when planning a trip. Travel (including international travel) becomes very difficult, hotels are full and many services close down for at least a week and possibly a lot longer.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)