Thursday, May 31, 2007

Vietnam Hoi An

The UN's cultural agency listed the historic and quaint trading town of Hoi An as a World Heritage site in 1999. The riverine town is an exceptionally well-preserved example of a 15th to 19th century Southeast Asian trading port. Hoi An's "buildings and its street pattern reflect the influences, both indigenous and foreign, that combined to produce this unique heritage site," UNESCO says. The listing has given Hoi An the resources and impetus to better protect and maintain its wonderful architecture, which now attracts tourists by the droves.

Historians believe that Hoi An existed more than 2,000 years ago as a primitive port for the Sa Huynh people, thanks to evidence from archaeological excavations which have also pointed towards early trade with the Han dynasty in China. Through to the 15th century, the port was absorbed into the Kingdom of Champa and was known first as Lam Ap and later as Faifo. During this period, it developed into a prosperous trading port visited by trading fleets from as far afield as the Arabian peninsula. As a hub of regional trade, Hoi An brought considerable affluence to the Champa Kingdom, evidence of which can be seen at nearby My Son.

The number of traders visiting Hoi An escalated as the centuries marched on, with the Portuguese, Dutch, British and French all making an appearance, along with the ever-present Chinese, Japanese and Indians. The majority of Hoi An's most beautiful buildings were constructed from the 15th to 19th centuries.

Hoi An's star began to fade as trade slowly moved north to the larger and more industrial port of Danang. Today, little trade occurs aside from tourist boats, and only small-scale fishing boats use the port commercially.

While many are attracted to Hoi An by the graceful, pastel-coloured buildings, others are lured by an abundance of shopping. This is the place to get an entirely new wardrobe for US$200, including shoes. Why stop at a makeover for yourself? Snap up Chinese lanterns, crockery and lacquerware for a household makeover as well. The downside of Hoi An's shopping is that the number of stores has become quite ridiculous and after a few days of constant badgering by touts and salespeople you may be ready to flee. A ban on any new shops opening was recently enacted, but it's a shame the authorities didn't think about this a few years ago.

If you visit, do think about what clothes you'd like from the tailors and shoes you'll get your cobblers to sew up. Once you arrive, the choices are limitless and overwhelming, and you're likely to end up spending more than you expect. It's difficult to recommend any tailors in particular as so many do excellent jobs, so if you're thinking of getting a lot of clothes made, try a few on your first day -- say, get a shirt made at one, a skirt at another and a dress at a third. Most will have the piece ready for trying on by the end of the day, which will give you a chance to assess quality and choose the best one before really going wild.

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